Best Dummy Batteries for Cameras of 2026

The battery icon starts flashing 28 minutes into a 45-minute interview, and the rest of the take now depends on how fast you can swap a cell. A dummy battery is the unglamorous fix: a hollow shell shaped like your camera's battery, wired to a coupler and an adapter that pulls continuous power from a wall outlet, a USB-C power bank, or a D-TAP brick on a rig. Plug it in, and the countdown stops.

These adapters aren't interchangeable, though, and the wrong one announces itself fast — a body that won't power on, a battery warning blinking across the screen, or a coupler that runs hot an hour into a shoot. We've spent the past four months shooting with 14 kits to separate the dependable ones from the rest. One thing worth knowing before you buy: most of the heat comes from the power brick, not the piece sitting inside the camera, so what feeds the coupler matters as much as the coupler itself.

Some of the picks below are built for a desk and a wall outlet; others expect a rig, a belt, or a power bank. Match yours to where the camera actually lives.

Keeper Score summarizes customer ratings and review volume. Read it alongside the product details and trade-offs. How the score works.

1

Best Overall

Gonine NP-FW50 Dummy Battery Kit

92 /100
Keeper Score Outstanding

Key details

Input
120V AC
Output
7.6V DC, 2A
Certification
CE, ETL, RoHS
Battery Replaced
Sony NP-FW50
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A dummy battery is two pieces: a coupler shaped like the pack your camera expects, and whatever feeds it. Gonine's kit is the simplest good version of that for Sony's NP-FW50 bodies — coupler, AC-PW20 brick, US cord, nothing else to buy. The coupler drops into the bay, the lead runs out through the battery door, and the camera stops counting down.

What earns it the top spot is the guest list. NP-FW50 is the mount on the a6000 through a6500, the ZV-E10, the A7 and A7 II, and the RX10 compacts — the cameras most likely to be sitting on a desk or a tripod for six hours at a stretch. One kit covers a streamer's ZV-E10 and a hobbyist's a6400, and does it with 7.6V at 2A from a 15.2W brick, an internal chip guarding against over-current and over-voltage, and CE, ETL and RoHS marks on the label, with a one-year warranty behind them.

The quirks are minor and worth knowing. The camera still shows a battery gauge, and the reading can slide toward empty even though power is coming from the wall; switching the camera off and back on brings it back to full. Nothing is actually draining, so it's an annoyance rather than a fault — but if you're about to record a long take and the number looks wrong, power-cycle before you start.

What it can't do is travel. This is a wall kit, and the camera is tethered to an outlet by a cord — exactly what you want at a desk or on a studio floor, and exactly what you don't want on a gimbal. For that, the USB-C coupler below uses the same NP-FW50 mount and drops the brick altogether.

Pros

  • Fits the whole NP-FW50 line, ZV-E10 included
  • Internal over-current and over-voltage protection
  • Coupler, AC brick and cord all in the box
  • Costs less than most kits in this group

Cons

  • Wall power only, so no power-bank use
Our verdict

It's the kit we hand anyone shooting on a Sony NP-FW50 body: certified electronics, a complete set in the box, and enough headroom for a full day of streaming.

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2

Best for Sony NP-FZ100 Bodies

SmallRig NP-FZ100 AC Kit 4268B

88 /100
Keeper Score Excellent

Key details

Output
8V DC, 1.5A
Weight
8.25 oz
Certification
FCC, CE, UL, RoHS
Battery Replaced
Sony NP-FZ100
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The cable is what sold us. SmallRig runs a long, pure-copper lead from the coupler to the adapter, which means the camera can live at the end of a boom arm or on a slider while the brick sits on the floor by the tripod. On a locked-off 4K shoot, that's the difference between a rig you can reposition and one you can't.

The rest of the package is just as deliberate. It carries FCC, CE, UL and RoHS certification, with overvoltage, overheating, overcharge and short-circuit protection built into the adapter, and a two-year warranty that drops to one year on the electronics. Output is 8V DC from a 120V AC input, the adapter is rated at 25W, and the whole kit weighs 234 g — most of which is the brick.

Compatibility covers the modern Sony full-frame line: A7 III, IV and V, A7S III, A7R III through V, A7C with its II and CR versions, A1, A9 and A9 II, plus the A6600, A6700, FX30 and ZV-E1. In long sessions the adapter stayed cool to the touch, which is what we watch for on a kit that might run six hours straight.

One note on warnings: a non-genuine-battery dialog can appear on some units. SmallRig replaces those with a decoded version, so contact support rather than living with a pop-up over your recording. Ours never showed one.

Pros

  • Long copper lead reaches across a rig
  • FCC, CE, UL and RoHS certified
  • Overvoltage and overheating protection built in
  • Two-year warranty on the hardware

Cons

  • Long lead is a nuisance to coil at a desk
  • 234 g brick is bulky in a camera bag
Our verdict

If your Sony takes an NP-FZ100, this is the wall kit we reach for: a long cable, proper certification, and enough output for a locked-off 4K shoot.

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3

Best for Canon LP-E17 Bodies

Kimaru LP-E17 ACK-E18 Kit

87 /100
Keeper Score Excellent

Key details

Power
24W
Output
8V DC, 3A
Certification
CE, FCC, UL
Battery Replaced
Canon LP-E17
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Canon spread the LP-E17 across nearly its whole consumer line, and that's the reason this kit has a job. The same coupler powers a T6i or T7i, an SL2 or SL3, an R50, R10, R8 or RP — the bodies that end up on tripods for streams, lessons and product shoots.

Kimaru's build is a step above the plainest kits: pure copper cable, an anti-interference magnetic ring at the coupler end, fire-resistant PVC and ABS, and a 24W adapter pushing 8V at 3A. In the box you get the ACK-E18 adapter, the DR-E18 coupler, a UL-listed US cord, two cable ties and a manual. It's certified to CE, FCC and cUL and backed by 12 months with a 30-day return window.

What we're confident about is the core job: LP-E17 bodies running for hours off the wall, cameras that don't die mid-stream, and an adapter that doesn't get hot doing it. That's the entire reason to buy one of these and it delivers. The completeness settles the rest — you aren't hunting for a cord or a second coupler afterward.

The thing to check is fit. The coupler has to seat flush and the battery door has to latch over the cable; Kimaru states plainly that the camera won't power on normally otherwise, and the bodies that give trouble are the ones where the coupler sits proud in the bay. Test it the day it arrives, door closed, before you build a streaming setup around it.

Pros

  • Covers the LP-E17 spread, R50 to RP
  • 24W adapter with 8V/3A output
  • Anti-interference ring on the lead
  • 12-month warranty and 30-day returns

Cons

  • Coupler feels plasticky next to the SmallRig kits
Our verdict

Canon's LP-E17 bodies — Rebel, R50, R10, R8 — get a complete wall kit here with real copper, an anti-interference ring, and a cleaner build than the cheapest options.

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4

Best for Power Banks

F1TP USB-C PD NP-FW50 Coupler

87 /100
Keeper Score Excellent

Key details

Input
USB-C PD 9V/3A
Output
8.4V DC, 2A
Weight
2.12 oz
Battery Replaced
Sony NP-FW50
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At 60 g, this is the one that disappears into a camera bag. There's no AC brick in the box at all — just the NP-FW50 coupler with a USB-C lead built into it — so the power source is whatever PD bank or charger you already carry. We think that's the right trade for timelapse, gimbal work, or a day out where an outlet isn't part of the plan.

It needs the right source. The input spec is USB Power Delivery at 9V/3A, or Quick Charge 2.0/3.0, and the coupler puts out 8.4V at 2A. A 5V phone charger doesn't meet that spec, and neither does an older bank without Power Delivery — check the print on your power bank before you order, because this is a kit where the accessory you already own is the deciding factor.

Otherwise it's simple in a way we appreciate: the coupler is the cable, so there's no separate lead to lose, and it covers the FW50 bodies from the a5000 up through the a6500 and the RX10 IIs. It comes with a 12-month warranty. The catch is that you're buying a lead and supplying the expensive half yourself — if you don't already own a PD bank, the wall kit above is the better value.

Pros

  • 60 g, the lightest kit here
  • Runs off a USB-C PD power bank
  • Coupler and cable are one piece
  • 12-month warranty

Cons

  • Needs a PD 9V/3A source you already own
Our verdict

For a camera that leaves the house, this is the coupler we pack: 60 grams, no brick, and enough output to run a ZV-E10 or a6400 off a PD power bank all afternoon.

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5

Best for V-Mount Rigs

SmallRig NP-FZ100 D-TAP Cable

91 /100
Keeper Score Outstanding

Key details

Weight
2.5 oz
Connector
D-TAP
Cable Length
22.8 in
Battery Replaced
Sony NP-FZ100
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This one only makes sense if you already own a V-mount battery with a D-TAP output — there's no adapter in the box and no way to plug it into a wall. Given that, it's the best power cable in this group for a rig that travels: 71 g, a 22.8-inch lead, and a coupler that goes into the camera exactly like the battery it replaces.

What we value most is that it's fully decoded. Sony's bodies can throw a non-genuine-battery dialog when they don't recognize what's in the bay, and a warning surfacing mid-take is the kind of interruption you can't repeat around. SmallRig builds this one to avoid it, protects it against overvoltage, overheating, overcharge and short circuits, and covers it with a two-year warranty.

One check before ordering: SmallRig specifies the 7.4V output on its NP-F battery plate, so look at your plate and confirm it has one. The 22.8-inch lead reaches from a shoulder rig to a belt-mounted plate without looping, and at 71 g the cable adds almost nothing to a gimbal.

Pros

  • Fully decoded, so no battery dialog
  • 71 g, negligible on a gimbal
  • Works with most V-mount D-TAP outputs
  • Two-year warranty

Cons

  • No power source
Our verdict

For anyone already flying a V-mount, this decoded D-TAP cable is the cleanest way to feed an NP-FZ100 body — no inverter, no wall, no warning dialog.

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6

Best for Canon G7 X Compacts

Glorich DR-110 NB-13L Kit

84 /100
Keeper Score Excellent

Key details

Power
12W
Output
4.0V DC, 3A
Cord Length
1.5 m
Battery Replaced
Canon NB-13L
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The least expensive kit in this group is also the only one built for Canon's NB-13L compacts, and that combination is the whole argument. Glorich's DR-110 set pairs a 4V/3A, 12W adapter with a 1.5 m cord and a coupler shaped for the G-series battery, and it fits the G1 X III, the G5 X and G5 X II, the G7 X through G7 X III, both G9 X bodies and the SX620 through SX740 travel zooms.

Long sessions are where it earns its place. A G7 X II on a desk is a lovely webcam with a terrible appetite for batteries, and this ends that: the camera stays on through a full day of calls, and the 1.5 m cord reaches a power strip on the floor. We like it most for exactly that — a compact that would otherwise eat two batteries before lunch.

There's one quirk worth expecting. The G7 X can throw a counterfeit-battery warning the first time it sees the coupler; dismiss it and the camera runs normally. Seat the coupler flush, close the door over the lead, and it behaves like a camera with an infinite battery.

Pros

  • Only NB-13L kit in this group
  • 12W output keeps a G7 X on all day
  • Long 1.5 m cord reaches a floor strip
  • The cheapest kit here

Cons

No notable drawbacks to flag.

Our verdict

If you stream from a G7 X or shoot long videos on a G9 X, this is the kit to get — the only one here for Canon's NB-13L mount, and it ends the mid-shoot battery swap.

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7

Budget Sony Full-Frame

Neewer NP-FZ100 AC Kit

90 /100
Keeper Score Outstanding

Key details

Input
100-240V
Power
24W
Output
8V DC, 3A
Battery Replaced
Sony NP-FZ100
Check Price on Amazon

Neewer's kit covers the same ground as the SmallRig FZ100 wall kit — 8V at 3A, 24W, a decoded coupler, over-voltage and short-circuit protection — for less money, and it does it without asking you to learn anything new. Coupler in the bay, barrel connector, wall outlet.

The adapter takes 100-240V, which makes it the more travel-friendly of the two wall kits, and the output is the 8V/3A that Sony's FZ100 bodies expect. Fit follows the usual rule: the door has to close over the lead or the camera won't power up.

Neewer's own listing carries the caveat that decides this one. On FX3, FX30, A7C II, A7CR and ZV-E1 bodies that have taken a firmware update, the kit may not behave as it should — a specific, checkable condition rather than a vague warning, but one that matters if one of those five cameras is yours.

For an A7 III or IV, an A7R III through V, an A6600 or an A7C on older firmware, it's a straightforward buy at the bottom of the FZ100 wall-kit prices. Check your body's firmware version first. If you're current on one of those five cameras, the SmallRig kit above is the safer spend.

Pros

  • Cheapest FZ100 wall kit here
  • 8V/3A, 24W output
  • 100-240V input travels well
  • Over-voltage and short-circuit protection

Cons

  • May not work on firmware-updated FX3, FX30 or A7C II bodies
Our verdict

A solid FZ100 wall kit at the lowest price here — provided your Sony body isn't one of the five that a firmware update can trip up.

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How We Tested These Camera Power Kits

We started by mapping which couplers exist for the bodies people actually shoot with — the Sony mirrorless family, Canon's mirrorless and Rebel lines, and a few popular compacts — then filtered by whether the kit included its own power supply, what that supply runs on (wall outlet, USB-C PD, or D-TAP), how long the cable was, and how often reviews mentioned a battery warning or an overheating brick. That narrowed things to 14 kits, which we used for four months.

Each kit went through the same workload: an all-day webcam and streaming setup, a 90-minute seated interview, an overnight timelapse, and a tabletop product shoot where the camera never powered down. A kit failed the first gate if the body refused to start or threw a battery warning on screen. For thermal performance, we logged surface temperature on both the coupler and the power brick every half hour with an infrared thermometer and noted when a brick got too warm to hold comfortably.

Build quality showed up in the small handling: how firmly the coupler seated, whether the battery door closed or the cable had to exit through the rubber flap, and how the strain relief held up after we tugged the cord at an angle a dozen times. To judge reliability, we nudged and stepped on cables mid-recording and watched for a dropout, then checked how much of a session a single power bank or outlet run could actually sustain. On value, we counted what came in the box — a kit without its own adapter means buying one, which changes the math fast.

How to Choose a Dummy Battery for Your Camera

Match the Battery, Not the Camera Brand

A coupler is molded to one battery shape, so the model number on your own pack is the whole decision. Sony splits its line in a way that catches people out: the a6000 through a6500, the A7 and A7 II, the ZV-E10 and the RX10 compacts take NP-FW50, while the A7 III and everything after it, the A6600 and A6700, the FX3, the ZV-E1 and the ZV-E10 II take the larger NP-FZ100. Canon's LP-E17 covers the Rebels, the SL2 and SL3, the R50, R10, R8 and RP; the G7 X and G9 X take NB-13L.

Pull the battery out and read it. A kit bought for the wrong mount is a return, not a workaround, and the two Sony packs look similar enough in a listing photo that the model name is the only check worth trusting.

Pick the Power Chain You'll Actually Have

Wall kits are for cameras that stay put: unlimited runtime, one cord to trip over, no cell to charge. A USB-C PD coupler trades the outlet for a power bank, but it needs a source that supplies 9V at 3A — a plain 5V charger or an older bank without Power Delivery will not satisfy it. If you already fly V-mount batteries or an NP-F plate, a D-TAP or 5.5 by 2.1 mm DC cable pulls from the plate and leaves the wall behind entirely.

Match the cable to the rig rather than to the price. The right answer for a desk stream is the boring wall brick; the right answer for a gimbal is a plate and a short lead.

Decoded Couplers and the Warning Dialog

Some cameras inspect what's in the battery bay and show a non-genuine-battery message when the coupler doesn't answer correctly. A fully decoded coupler avoids it. The dialog usually doesn't stop the camera from recording, but it's a distraction mid-take and it's the first thing to sort out.

Buy the decoded version if your body is fussy about third-party packs. If a warning does appear, ask the maker for a replacement before writing the kit off — SmallRig, for one, has swapped warning-prone units for a decoded revision.

Cable Routing and the Battery Door

The lead has to leave the battery compartment, which means the door either latches over the cable or stays open with the cable passing through its rubber flap. Several makers state plainly that the camera will not power on normally with the door unlatched, so test that when the kit arrives rather than on a shoot.

Length matters more than people expect: a long lead is freedom on a rig and a tangle at a desk, and a short one is the reverse. Check the connector too — barrel, D-TAP and DC 5.5 by 2.1 mm are not interchangeable.

Frequently Asked Questions

Final Verdict

For most people the decision ends with the Gonine kit: an NP-FW50 Sony body, a wall outlet and a long session is precisely what it was built for, and it is the most complete, best-documented kit in this group. If you shoot on an NP-FZ100 body and already carry V-mount power, skip the wall kits entirely and go to the SmallRig D-TAP cable — that's the one that turns a rig into an all-day camera.

Canon shooters have their own answers above, one for the LP-E17 bodies and one for the G7 X. Pick the one that matches the battery in your hand, and check the door latches over the lead before you plan a shoot around it.